Textiles, Sewing & Knitting

This section covers raw materials and finished textiles, from raw cotton and worsted wool to plain-woven calico.

• Abb-woolalso abb
  The raw wool fleece sorted specifically to be spun into warp yarn.
• Aida clothalso Java canvas
  A stiff, open-weave cotton fabric with a natural grid used for counted thread embroidery.
• Antron
  A commercial brand of trilobal nylon fiber known for its high luster and durability.
• Battingalso wadding
  The lofty insulating layer of material sandwiched inside quilts and heavy outerwear.
• Blenderalso blender fabric
  A subtly patterned fabric that reads as a solid color from a distance. Shop talk
• Bottoming
  A preliminary treatment or base color applied to textiles before the final dye.
• Bri-Nylon
  A historic brand of synthetic polyamide fiber known for durability and stretch.
• Calico
  A plain-woven, unbleached cotton fabric that retains natural husks and a coarse texture.
• Camoalso camouflage
  A fabric print featuring irregular, mottled shapes designed to blend into natural environments. Shop talk
• Camouflagealso camo
  A disruptive textile print using irregular shapes and natural colors to conceal the wearer.
• Canneléalso cannel, rep
  A woven fabric featuring distinct transverse ribs or cords.
• Checkalso checkered, checkerboard
  A fabric pattern consisting of intersecting horizontal and vertical bands that form squares.
• Chinéalso warp-printed
  A mottled or speckled fabric appearance created by warp printing or twisting different colored threads.
• Conditioning time
  The duration required for a textile sample to reach moisture equilibrium in a controlled environment.
• Cotillion
  A historic woolen fabric primarily used for making voluminous skirts.
• Cotton
  A soft, staple textile fiber grown in bolls around the seeds of the cotton plant.
• Cotton blend
  A textile woven or knitted from a mix of cotton and at least one other fiber type.
• Cotton waxalso waxed cotton
  A dense cotton fabric treated with paraffin or beeswax to make it highly water-resistant.
• Cram
  To pack multiple warp threads tightly into a single dent in the reed.
• Crockalso crocking
  To transfer dye from a fabric to another surface through rubbing.
• Crossbandalso S-twist
  Having a left-handed or S-shaped twist in a yarn or rope.
• Crushed
  Treated to have a permanently wrinkled or creased texture.
• Crushed velvet
  A velvet fabric with a textured, irregular surface created by mechanically twisting or pressing the pile.
• Cyprusalso cypress
  A historic, lightweight, and semi-transparent fabric usually dyed black and used for mourning garments.
• Desize
  To wash out the protective starches or chemicals applied to warp yarns before weaving.
• Developer
  A chemical bath used to fix or alter the color of specific dyes on a textile fiber.
• Dimity
  A lightweight, sheer cotton fabric characterized by woven vertical stripes or a checked pattern.
• Dischargealso discharge printing, extract printing
  To remove dye from a previously dyed fabric using chemical bleaching agents.
• DKalso double knitting weight, light worsted
  An abbreviation for double knitting, a medium yarn weight widely used for garments.
• DPM
  Disruptive Pattern Material, a camouflage print characterized by irregular overlapping shapes.
• Drape
  The way a fabric hangs, folds, and flows under its own weight.
• DTM
  The instruction to dye a zipper, button, or trim in the exact same color as the main fabric. Shop talk
• Duvetynalso commando cloth
  A dense, matte fabric with a brushed nap that blocks light effectively.
• Egyptian cotton
  A premium cotton fiber with an extra-long staple length that spins into very fine, strong yarn.
• Emerizealso suede, peach
  To run fabric over abrasive rollers to create a soft, peach-fuzz texture on the surface.
• Everlastingalso lasting
  A historic, heavy-duty worsted fabric known for extreme durability in workwear and shoe uppers.
• Eyelash yarnalso fun fur
  A novelty yarn featuring a central thread with short, distinct strands protruding outward.
• Farmers' satin
  A traditional lining fabric woven from a blend of cotton and worsted wool.
• Fat quarter
  A rectangular piece of fabric cut to maximize usable area for quilters.
• Fiberalso fibre
  The fundamental hair-like raw material used to construct textiles.
• Filament
  A continuous, unbroken strand of fiber of indefinite length.
• Flax cottonalso cottonized flax
  Linen fibers that have been chemically or mechanically processed to mimic the properties of cotton.
• Float
  A length of yarn that passes over multiple opposing threads without being interlaced.
• Galatea
  A strong, durable cotton fabric woven with a diagonal twill pattern.
• Gassingalso singeing
  A finishing process that burns off loose surface fibers from yarn or fabric.
• Gazar
  A stiff, loosely woven silk or wool fabric used for sculptural garments.
• Gimpalso Gimped
  To wrap a core yarn or cord tightly with another thread or wire in a continuous spiral.
• GPD
  Grams per denier, a unit measuring the tensile strength or tenacity of a fiber or yarn.
• Greigealso gray, grey
  Describing woven or knitted fabric that has not yet been bleached, dyed, or finished.
• Greige goodsalso gray goods, loom-state fabric
  Raw, unfinished woven or knitted textiles that have not yet been bleached, dyed, or treated.
• HBT
  Herringbone twill, a durable woven fabric with a distinctive V-shaped pattern.
• Heatheralso Heathered
  A color effect created by blending differently colored fibers before spinning.
• Herringbonealso broken twill
  A twill weave fabric featuring a distinctive V-shaped zigzag pattern.
• Italianalso Italian cloth
  A clipped form of Italian cloth, a durable lining fabric. Shop talk
• Italian clothalso Italian lining
  A sturdy woven cotton or linen fabric with a smooth satin finish.
• Knopalso nop
  A decorative or accidental thickened bunch of twisted yarn.
• Laceweight
  An extremely thin yarn category used for delicate, openwork knitting.
• Lastingalso lasting cloth, everlasting
  A durable, plain-woven woolen or worsted fabric traditionally used for heavy wear.
• Lenoalso gauze weave, cross weave
  A weave structure where paired warp yarns twist around the weft yarns to create an open, stable fabric.
• Limerick lace
  A form of embroidered lace created by stitching patterns onto a machine-made net background.
• Maarad
  A historic, long-staple Egyptian cotton variety known for its strength and luster.
• Machine lace
  Lace fabric produced mechanically on specialized looms rather than by hand.
• Marabou
  A fine, thrown raw silk yarn that can be dyed without removing its natural gum.
• Marcellaalso piqué
  A woven fabric with a raised, geometric texture often used for formal shirting.
• Martindalealso rubs
  A numerical rating that indicates a fabric's resistance to abrasion.
• Martindale methodalso Martindale rub test
  A standardized laboratory test used to determine the abrasion and pilling resistance of textiles.
• MCalso main color
  The primary yarn color used for the background or majority of a multi-colored knitting or crochet project.
• Mediumweight
  A fabric thickness that strikes a balance between light draping materials and heavy upholstery.
• Monofilamentalso invisible thread
  A single, continuous strand of synthetic fiber used as a yarn or thread.
• Mule twist
  A historic type of cotton yarn spun on a spinning mule.
• Narrow cloth
  A historic classification for woolen fabrics woven at a narrower width than broadcloth.
• New Zealand cotton
  A bast fiber derived from the ribbonwood tree that mimics true cotton.
• Nondrying
  Describes a garment or fabric that should not be put in a tumble dryer.
• Nun's thread
  A very fine, high-quality white linen thread used for delicate lacemaking and embroidery.
• Openbandalso Z-twist, right-handed twist
  An openband yarn features a right-handed twist where the fibers angle upward to the right.
• Orleans
  A historic woven fabric made with a cotton warp and a worsted wool weft.
• Ottomanalso ottoman silk, ottoman cord
  A heavy woven fabric characterized by pronounced crosswise ribs or cords.
• Percale
  A closely woven, plain-weave fabric known for its crisp feel and matte finish.
• PFDalso rfd
  The industry abbreviation for prepared for dyeing.
• Phosphinealso chrysaniline
  A historic synthetic basic dye used to color textiles yellow or orange.
• Piece-dye
  To color a continuous length of woven or knitted fabric after it has been manufactured.
• Piece goodsalso yardage
  Woven or knitted fabrics manufactured and sold in standard lengths.
• Piecenalso piece up
  To twist or splice broken ends of yarn together during the spinning process. Shop talk
• Pink salt
  A tin-based double salt used as a mordant in traditional textile dyeing and printing.
• Piquéalso marcella
  A medium-weight woven fabric characterized by raised parallel cords or geometric textures.
• Plaid
  A fabric pattern consisting of crossed horizontal and vertical bands in two or more colors.
• Plain-woven
  Constructed using the simplest over-one, under-one interlacing of warp and weft threads.
• Plying
  The process of twisting two or more single strands of yarn together to create a stronger, balanced thread.
• Polynosealso polynosic
  A modified viscose rayon fiber known for high wet strength and dimensional stability.
• PPI
  An abbreviation for picks per inch, measuring the density of weft threads in a woven fabric.
• Predraft
  A preparatory spinning step that gently elongates fiber mass before actual drafting.
• Printclothalso print cloth
  A lightweight plain-woven cotton fabric specifically manufactured to receive printed designs.
• Radiumalso radium silk
  A smooth, tightly woven fabric with a subtle luster, traditionally made of silk or rayon.
• Red liquor
  An aluminum acetate solution used to fix natural dyes to plant fibers.
• Regeneratedalso regenerated cellulosic
  Describes a fiber created by dissolving a natural raw material and extruding it into a new filament.
• Repalso repp
  A durable, tightly woven fabric featuring prominent horizontal ribs or cords.
• RFDalso PFD
  Ready for dyeing describes a fabric that has been fully scoured, bleached, and prepped for the dye bath.
• Rot-steep
  To soak cotton goods to break down and remove natural impurities. Shop talk
• Russia calfalso Russian calf
  A high-quality, durable calfskin leather traditionally tanned with birch oil.
• Russia drab
  A coarse, unbleached hemp fabric traditionally used for inexpensive workwear.
• Russia linen
  A durable, coarse linen fabric historically woven from hemp or flax.
• Salt of tinalso stannous chloride, tin crystals
  A historic chemical mordant used to fix dyes to textile fibers.
• Satin jeanalso jean satin
  A strong, tightly woven cotton fabric with a smooth, glossy surface.
• Seersucker
  A lightweight woven cotton fabric featuring alternating smooth and puckered vertical stripes.
• Self-striping
  Describing yarn dyed in long, repeating color segments that automatically form horizontal bands when knitted.
• Semisheer
  Describing a lightweight textile that allows partial light transmission while obscuring fine details.
• Serge
  A durable twill fabric woven with a worsted warp and woolen weft, featuring a distinct diagonal rib.
• Settalso Sley
  The density of warp threads per inch in a woven fabric.
• Sheep-split
  An older term for a thin layer of sheepskin separated from the whole hide by a splitting machine.
• Sister's threadalso nun's thread
  A fine linen thread historically used for intricate embroidery.
• Sleave
  To separate or untangle a collection of threads or fibers.
• Soap offalso soaping, afterwash
  To wash newly dyed or printed fabric to remove unfixed colorants and processing chemicals.
• Stash
  A crafter's personal collection of unused yarn, fabric, or supplies. Shop talk
• Stripe
  A woven fabric pattern created by alternating bands of differently colored or textured yarns.
• Superbulkyalso super chunky
  A very thick category of knitting yarn designed for rapid work on large needles.
• Taffetized
  Treated to have a crisp, rustling texture similar to taffeta.
• Thread
  A fine, continuous strand of spun fibers used for sewing or weaving.
• Tram
  A loosely twisted silk yarn specifically engineered to be used as the weft in woven fabrics.
• Twill
  A woven fabric structure characterized by distinct diagonal lines or ridges.
• Underspun
  Yarn that lacks sufficient twist to hold its fibers together securely.
• Ungreenalso oxidize
  To expose indigo-dyed textiles to oxygen so the initial yellow-green color turns blue.
• Warp
  The set of lengthwise yarns held in tension on a loom before weaving begins.
• Warplike
  Having the high strength, tight twist, and smooth finish characteristic of warp yarns.
• Water repellent
  A chemical finish applied to fabrics to prevent water from penetrating the fibers.
• Water twist
  A historic type of tightly spun cotton yarn originally produced on water-powered spinning frames.
• Weftalso woof, filling
  The transverse yarns inserted over and under the warp to create a woven fabric.
• Welsh plain
  A historic coarse woolen cloth manufactured in Wales for export and working-class garments.
• Wetlookalso cire, liquid spandex
  A fabric finish that produces a high-gloss surface resembling liquid or slick moisture.
• Whole cloth
  A continuous, uncut piece of fabric straight from the loom or bolt.
• Worsted
  A smooth, compact yarn spun from long, combed wool fibers.
• Zagora
  A historic variety of long-staple Egyptian cotton known for its fine spinning qualities.

Read about the mechanical devices and hand tools that turn thread into cloth, including looms and machine parts.

• Antiballoon
  Designed to control the centrifugal flaring of yarn during high-speed spinning.
• Antiballooneralso balloon control ring, separator
  A physical ring or shield on a spinning frame that prevents yarn from bowing outward. Shop talk
• Backwasher
  A machine used in textile mills to wash wool slivers after they have been carded.
• Ballpointalso ballpoint needle
  A type of sewing machine needle with a rounded tip designed for knitting fabrics.
• Beater
  A swinging frame on a loom that packs weft yarns tightly into the warp.
• Bernina
  A premium Swiss brand of sewing and embroidery machines.
• Brakealso flax brake
  A heavy wooden tool used to crush the woody stems of bast fibers.
• Buttonhook
  A specialized hook used to pull buttons through stiff or tight buttonholes.
• Cable needle
  A short, specialized knitting needle used to temporarily hold stitches out of the way while crossing a cable.
• Candroy
  A historic machine used in textile mills to spread and wind cotton cloth in preparation for printing.
• Cardalso Jacquard card, punch card
  A perforated plate or pasteboard that controls warp threads in a Jacquard loom.
• Cheeser
  A small spool or bobbin used during the finishing stages of yarn production. Shop talk
• Circular needlealso circular
  A knitting tool made of two rigid tips joined by a flexible cord.
• Closed-toe
  A type of sewing machine presser foot with a solid front edge that surrounds the needle.
• Combalso weaving comb, beater comb
  A toothed hand tool used in weaving to pack weft yarns tightly into the warp.
• Cotton cardalso carded sliver
  A continuous, untwisted rope of cotton fibers produced by a carding machine. Shop talk
• Countershed
  An alternate opening formed in the warp threads of a loom, opposite to the previous shed.
• Creel
  A rack used to hold multiple spools or bobbins of yarn for machinery.
• Dent
  The open space between the vertical wires of a loom's reed where warp threads pass through.
• Dobbyalso dobby loom, dobby attachment
  A mechanical attachment on a loom used to weave small, repetitive geometric patterns.
• Doffalso doffing
  To remove full bobbins, cones, or processed fiber from a spinning frame or carding machine. Shop talk
• Double-pointed needle
  A short, straight knitting implement featuring tapered tips on each side.
• DPN
  An abbreviation for double-pointed needle, used in knitting patterns. Shop talk
• Draw framealso drawing frame
  A spinning machine that combines and stretches carded slivers of fiber.
• Drawing framealso draw frame
  A machine used in yarn manufacturing to draft and blend slivers of fiber.
• Dropboxalso Pattern box, drop box
  A loom mechanism that holds multiple shuttles for weaving different weft colors.
• Feed dog
  The metal teeth under the needle plate of a sewing machine that pull the fabric forward.
• Gathereralso gathering foot
  A sewing machine foot that automatically creates uniform ruffles in fabric.
• Griffalso griffe
  A lifting mechanism in a Jacquard loom that catches and raises specific warp threads.
• Heckalso heck-box
  A guiding apparatus used to separate warp threads during the warping process.
• Heck-box
  A block or frame containing the heck grating on a warping mill.
• Hecklealso hackle
  To comb raw flax or hemp fibers to prepare them for spinning.
• Knockoff
  A knitting machine component that pushes completed loops off the needles.
• Lace machine
  Industrial equipment designed to manufacture lace fabrics.
• Lazy Kate
  A rack that holds multiple bobbins of spun yarn under tension for plying.
• Longarmalso longarm quilter, longarm machine
  A specialized, heavy-duty sewing machine with an extended throat space used for quilting large projects.
• Needle threader
  A small tool used to pull yarn or thread through the eye of a needle.
• Nostepinne
  A carved wooden stick used to manually wind yarn into a center-pull ball.
• Opened-toealso open-toe
  A sewing machine presser foot with an open front section.
• Overseameralso overlocker, serger
  An industrial sewing machine designed to stitch over the edge of one or two pieces of cloth.
• Perchalso inspection frame, perching machine
  A vertical frame equipped with rollers and lights used to inspect fabric rolls.
• Pfleidereralso shredder
  A specialized shredding machine used in the production of synthetic cellulosic fibers.
• Pick-at-will
  A loom mechanism that allows the weaver to select from multiple shuttle boxes in any sequence.
• Picker
  The mechanism on a loom that strikes the shuttle to drive it across the warp.
• Pincushion
  A small pad or magnetic holder used to safely store pins and needles during sewing.
• Pinking shears
  A pair of scissors with sawtooth blades that cut fabric in a zigzag pattern.
• Point presser
  A wooden pressing tool with a narrow, tapered point for ironing tight corners.
• Pounding blockalso clapper, tailor's clapper
  A heavy wooden block used to flatten thick seams by trapping steam.
• Presser footalso Foot
  A sewing machine attachment that holds fabric flat against the feed dogs.
• Pressing cloth
  A piece of fabric placed between an iron and a garment to prevent damage.
• Quilting needlealso between
  A short, sharp hand-sewing needle designed for pushing quickly through multiple fabric layers.
• Racealso shuttle race
  A flat ledge on a loom that supports the shuttle as it travels across the warp.
• Rebeam
  To transfer warp yarn from one storage cylinder to another.
• Reed
  A comb-like frame on a loom that spaces the warp threads and packs the weft.
• Rig
  To set up and thread a loom or machine for production. Shop talk
• Ring spinneralso ring spinning frame
  A machine that continuously drafts, twists, and winds yarn onto a bobbin.
• Rocking tree
  The main pivot shaft responsible for suspending the lay on a weaving loom.
• Roveralso roving frame
  A spinning machine that drafts and slightly twists fiber slivers into rovings.
• Safety pin
  A bent metal pin with a spring mechanism and a protective guard covering its sharp point.
• Section beam
  A wide cylindrical roller used in weaving preparation to hold a portion of the total warp threads.
• Sergeralso overlock machine, overlocker
  A specialized sewing machine that trims fabric edges and encloses them in thread simultaneously.
• Shaftalso Harness
  A loom frame that holds heddles to control the lifting of warp threads.
• Shuttle
  A weaving tool that carries the weft yarn across the loom.
• Shuttle driver
  A mechanical component on a power loom that propels the shuttle.
• Simple
  A system of cords used on a traditional drawloom to control pattern heddles.
• Spooler
  A machine or worker that winds yarn or thread onto a spool.
• Swiftalso umbrella swift, yarn swift
  An adjustable, rotating frame used to hold a hank of yarn taut while it is wound into a ball.
• Swinglealso scutcher, swingling knife
  A wooden blade used to beat flax stalks and separate the valuable bast fibers from the woody core.
• Sword
  A vertical arm that suspends and swings the beater on a loom.
• Tailor's hamalso pressing ham, dressmaker's ham
  A firmly stuffed, ham-shaped cushion used for pressing curved seams.
• Teaser
  A machine or worker that disentangles and opens up raw textile fibers.
• Temple
  A device used on a loom to keep the woven fabric at its full width.
• Thimble
  A protective cap worn on the finger to push needles through heavy fabric.
• Tie-up
  The specific physical connection between the treadles and the harnesses on a floor loom.
• Traveler hook
  A specialized hand tool used by mill workers to replace the small metal clips on a ring spinning frame.
• Traveller
  A small metal or plastic ring used in ring spinning to guide yarn onto a bobbin.
• Treadle
  To press the foot pedals on a floor loom in a specific sequence.
• Warp beamalso yarn-beam
  A large cylindrical roller at the back of a loom that holds the untangled warp yarns.
• Yarn-beamalso warp beam
  A large cylindrical spool that holds warp threads under tension for weaving.

Understand the specific maneuvers used to interlock yarn, join fabric panels, and add decorative motifs.

• Acid-washalso marble wash, moon wash
  A chemical stripping process that removes dye from heavy fabrics to create a mottled pattern.
• Amigurumi
  The Japanese craft of knitting or crocheting small stuffed yarn creatures.
• Backstitch
  A strong hand-sewing stitch that overlaps itself to create a continuous, durable line.
• Bargelloalso Florentine work, flame stitch
  A type of needlepoint embroidery using upright flat stitches to create geometric, wave, or flame patterns.
• Barrister's block
  A traditional quilt block pattern composed of interlocking triangles that create a complex geometric star or square motif.
• Bastingalso tacking
  Long, temporary stitches used to hold fabric layers securely in place.
• Bean stitch
  A heavy machine stitch created by repeating forward and backward passes over the same point.
• Beg
  A standard pattern abbreviation for the beginning of a row or round.
• Bind offalso cast off
  The process of securing live stitches in knitting to finish an edge.
• Blackwork
  A form of counted-thread embroidery traditionally done with black silk on white linen.
• Blanket stitch
  A decorative and functional hand stitch used to finish unhemmed edges.
• Bobble
  A raised, three-dimensional bump created in knitted or crocheted fabric.
• Box stitchalso box-and-cross stitch
  A rectangular stitching pattern often crossed with an X for reinforcement.
• Cable
  A raised knitting pattern created by crossing groups of stitches over one another to form twisted ropes.
• Cast on
  To create the initial foundation row of stitches on a knitting needle.
• CCalso contrasting color
  Contrasting color, a secondary yarn color used to create patterns against a main color.
• CO
  The abbreviation for cast on, the process of creating the first row of stitches on a knitting needle.
• Couch down
  To secure a thick yarn or decorative thread to a fabric surface using small, perpendicular stitches. Shop talk
• Couching
  An embroidery technique where decorative threads are laid on the fabric surface and tacked in place.
• Crochet
  A needlework technique that creates fabric by interlocking loops of yarn with a hooked needle.
• Crow's footalso crow's foot tack
  A triangular embroidery stitch used for reinforcement or decoration.
• Darn
  A mending technique that uses a needle and thread to weave a patch directly over a hole.
• Dcalso double crochet
  Double crochet is a fundamental, tall crochet stitch used to build open fabrics quickly.
• Decalso decrease
  The standard knitting and crochet pattern abbreviation for a decrease.
• Decrease
  To reduce the number of active stitches in a row to shape a knitted or crocheted fabric.
• Diamond cross
  A traditional lace knitting stitch pattern that creates an interlocking diamond motif.
• Dip stitchalso elongated stitch, spike stitch
  A knitting technique where the needle is inserted into a stitch several rows below the current working row.
• Double knitting
  A technique that simultaneously produces two layers of knitted fabric on a single pair of needles.
• Drawnwork
  A needlework technique where threads are removed from a woven fabric to create open spaces.
• Dtr
  A tall crochet stitch made by wrapping the yarn three times around the hook before inserting it.
• Entrelac
  A knitting technique that creates a woven, basket-like texture using interconnected blocks of stitches.
• EOR
  An instruction in knitting or crochet to perform an action on alternating rows.
• Fair Islealso stranded colorwork
  A traditional stranded knitting technique used to create complex, multi-colored geometric patterns.
• Fancy stitch
  Any complex or decorative stitch pattern used primarily for visual effect rather than structural integrity.
• Flatlockalso flat seam
  A specialized machine stitch that joins two pieces of fabric edge-to-edge without overlapping bulk.
• Frogging
  The process of intentionally ripping out stitches in knitting or crochet to fix a mistake. Shop talk
• G st
  The standard knitting pattern abbreviation for garter stitch.
• Garter stitch
  A basic, reversible knitting pattern that creates horizontal ridges.
• Hedebo
  A traditional Danish whitework embroidery technique known for intricate cutwork and heavy needle lace.
• Holbein stitchalso double running stitch, line stitch
  A reversible line embroidery stitch worked in two journeys to create a solid line on both sides of the fabric.
• Honeycomb quiltalso hexagon quilt, Grandmother's Flower Garden
  A quilt constructed entirely from interlocking hexagonal fabric patches.
• Honeycomb stitch
  A smocking or knitting technique that creates a textured, diamond or hexagonal lattice pattern.
• HRTalso half-rectangle triangle
  The abbreviation HRT stands for half-rectangle triangle, a block made by joining two right triangles.
• HSTalso half-square triangle
  Half-square triangle, a common geometric unit in patchwork quilting.
• Htralso half treble crochet
  Half treble crochet, a UK crochet stitch matching the US half double crochet.
• In the round
  This technique creates a continuous tube of knitted or crocheted fabric without side edges.
• Incalso increase
  Increase, an instruction in knitting or crochet to add stitches.
• Increase
  A technique used to add stitches and widen a knitted or crocheted fabric.
• Intarsiaalso picture knitting
  A colorwork knitting technique used to create large, distinct blocks of color.
• Jufti knotalso false knot
  A rug-making knot tied over four warp threads instead of two.
• Kitchener stitchalso grafting
  A hand-sewing technique used to graft two sets of live knitted stitches together.
• Ladder stitchalso blind stitch
  An invisible hand stitch used to close seams from the outside.
• Lazy daisyalso detached chain stitch
  A detached chain stitch used to create small petal or leaf motifs in embroidery.
• Lock offalso tie off, secure
  To secure the final threads of a woven or sewn piece to prevent unravelling. Shop talk
• Lockstitch
  The standard mechanical stitch formed by interlocking a top thread and a bottom bobbin thread.
• Long and short stitch
  An embroidery technique used to blend colors and create smooth shading.
• Longtail cast-onalso double cast-on, continental cast-on
  A popular knitting method that creates a stretchy, durable starting edge using two strands of yarn.
• LT
  Left twist, a knitting stitch that crosses one stitch over another leaning to the left.
• MBalso make bobble
  A knitting instruction to create a raised, textured cluster of stitches known as a bobble.
• Modealso filling stitch, leadwork
  A small, intricate filling stitch or decorative insert used in lacemaking.
• Motif
  A distinct, recurring design element or standalone applique applied to a textile.
• Narrow
  To decrease the width of a knitted piece by combining stitches.
• Overlockalso serge
  A machine stitch that sews over the edge of fabric to prevent fraying.
• Overshot
  A weaving technique where supplemental weft threads float over a plain weave ground.
• Pfbalso Pbf
  The knitting abbreviation for purl front and back.
• Pick stitch
  A decorative and functional running stitch that barely catches the outer fabric layer.
• Picqué workalso pounced work
  A decorative needlework technique characterized by small dots or depressions.
• PM
  An abbreviation for place marker, used in knitting and crochet patterns.
• Popcornalso popcorn stitch
  A highly textured crochet stitch that creates a raised, rounded bump on the fabric surface.
• Psso
  A knitting instruction to pass a slipped stitch over the stitch just knitted.
• Purl
  To create a knitting stitch by pulling a loop of yarn through the front of the work.
• Redwork
  A style of outline embroidery stitched entirely in red thread on a white or natural background.
• Rev st st
  An abbreviation for reverse stockinette stitch or reverse stocking stitch.
• Ribalso ribbing
  A raised ridge in knitted material or woven cloth.
• Round robin
  A collaborative quilting or crafting project passed among multiple makers.
• RS
  The right side of a piece of fabric or a knitted project.
• RT
  A knitting instruction to perform a right twist stitch.
• Rug hooking
  A textile craft where loops of yarn or fabric strips are pulled through a stiff woven backing.
• Running stitchalso straight stitch
  A basic sewing stitch made by passing the needle in and out of the fabric at regular intervals.
• Seed stitch
  A textured knitting pattern created by alternating single knit and purl stitches horizontally and vertically.
• Shirralso shirring
  To gather fabric into decorative parallel rows using elastic or drawn threads.
• Shishaalso mirrorwork
  An embroidery technique that attaches small mirrors or reflective discs to fabric.
• Skpoalso SKPO
  A knitting abbreviation for slip one, knit one, pass slipped stitch over.
• Sl stalso SL ST
  A pattern abbreviation for slip stitch in knitting or crochet.
• Slipstitchalso slip stitch
  A knitting technique where a stitch is moved between needles without being worked.
• SMalso slip marker
  The action of moving a stitch marker from one knitting needle to the other.
• Smockingalso English smocking
  An embroidery technique that gathers fabric into tight pleats and secures them with decorative stitches.
• SSK
  This common knitting maneuver creates a neat, left-leaning decrease by slipping two stitches before knitting them together.
• St stalso stockinette stitch, stocking stitch
  The abbreviation for stocking stitch or stockinette stitch in knitting patterns.
• Steek
  A bridge of extra stitches used to cut open a knitted tube.
• Tackalso baste, Tacking
  A temporary, loose stitch used to hold fabric pieces in place before final sewing.
• TBL
  An instruction to knit or purl into the back leg of a stitch.
• Thrummed
  Fabric or knitwear constructed with short pieces of unspun fleece worked into it.
• Topstitch
  To sew a line of visible stitches on the exterior of a garment for decoration or structural reinforcement.
• Trapunto
  A quilting technique that creates a raised, three-dimensional surface by stuffing specific stitched motifs.
• Turn in
  To weave the loose ends of a thread back into the fabric edge to secure them.
• Underhand
  The hand positioned beneath the fabric in two-handed embroidery or tambour work.
• Whip stitch
  A simple hand-sewing stitch that loops over the edge of the fabric.
• WS
  The abbreviation for wrong side, indicating the back or interior face of a fabric.
• Wyib
  The knitting instruction for with yarn in back, directing the maker to hold the working strand away from them.
• Wyif
  The knitting instruction for with yarn in front, directing the maker to hold the working strand toward them.
• Yarnover
  A knitting technique where the yarn is draped over the right needle to form a new loop.
• YBalso yarn back, yarn backward
  A knitting instruction directing the crafter to move the working yarn to the back of the work.
• Yf
  An abbreviation for yarn forward in knitting patterns.
• YOalso Y/o
  The standard knitting abbreviation for a yarnover.
• Yo-yoalso Suffolk puff
  A fabric rosette made by gathering the edge of a circular piece of cloth.
• YONalso yarn over needle
  The abbreviation for yarn over needle directs a knitter to wrap the working yarn around the right needle to create an extra loop.

Review the methods used to shape flat textiles into three-dimensional garments that fit the human body perfectly.

• Baste up
  To temporarily assemble garment pieces using long, easily removable stitches.
• Becket
  A small, reinforced thread loop sewn onto a garment to hold hardware or accessories.
• Belt loop
  A small strip of fabric attached to the waistband of a garment to hold a belt.
• BH
  The abbreviation for buttonhole, an opening cut and bound in fabric to receive a button. Shop talk
• Bias tapealso bias binding
  A narrow strip of fabric cut on a 45-degree angle to the grainline.
• Binding
  A strip of fabric used to enclose and finish a raw edge.
• Break
  The horizontal crease where a trouser leg meets the shoe.
• Button
  A small disc or knob sewn onto a garment to act as a fastener by passing through a corresponding slit.
• Cinchablealso adjustable
  Designed with drawstrings or straps that allow a garment to be pulled tight around the body.
• Crotchline
  The structural seam or curve where the legs of a garment meet.
• Dartalso Darting
  A folded and stitched wedge of fabric used to shape a flat garment to the curves of the body.
• Domealso snap, press stud
  A regional or factory term for a heavy-duty press stud or snap fastener. Shop talk
• Ease
  The difference between the actual body measurement and the finished measurement of a garment.
• Felled seamalso flat-felled seam
  A highly durable, flat seam that completely encases all raw fabric edges.
• Flankalso back pocket, seat pocket
  A pocket positioned on the rear seat of a pair of trousers. Shop talk
• Flotation collaralso floating collar
  A collar construction technique where the interlining is stitched directly to the fabric edges.
• Flounce
  A wide, decorative strip of fabric attached at one edge to create a rippling effect.
• French seam
  A fully enclosed seam created by sewing the fabric twice to trap the raw edges inside.
• Fully fashioned
  Knitwear shaped by increasing or decreasing stitches during production rather than cutting from a flat fabric.
• Fussy cutalso fussy cutting
  The deliberate cutting of fabric to isolate and center a specific printed motif. Shop talk
• Godet
  A triangular piece of fabric inserted into a seam or slit to add volume and flare to a garment.
• Goring
  The use of shaped, tapered fabric panels to build a garment that fits closely at the top and flares at the bottom.
• Gradealso layer, stagger
  To trim the internal layers of a seam allowance to different widths to reduce bulk.
• Handblocked
  Shaped manually over a wooden mold using steam and pressure.
• Hem
  The finished lower edge of a garment made by folding the fabric back and sewing it down.
• Hong Kong finishalso Hong Kong seam, bound edge
  A premium seam finishing technique where raw fabric edges are encased in a narrow strip of bias binding.
• Knife pleatalso side pleat
  A sharp, pressed fold where all pleats face the same direction.
• Lab dip
  A small swatch of fabric dyed by a mill for color approval.
• Leakguardalso leg cuff, inner gusset
  A waterproof or stay-dry fabric gusset sewn around the leg openings of absorbent garments.
• Let down
  To increase the length of a garment by unpicking the existing hem and resewing it lower.
• Locker loopalso fairy loop, hang loop
  A small fabric strip sewn into the back yoke of a shirt for hanging on a hook.
• Off-the-rackalso ready-to-wear
  A ready-made garment manufactured in standard sizes.
• On the biasalso bias cut
  Cutting fabric diagonally at a 45-degree angle to the straight grain.
• Piping
  A narrow tube of fabric, often containing a filler cord, sewn into a seam for decoration or structure.
• Pleat
  A permanent fold created by doubling fabric back upon itself and securing it in place.
• Pocket
  A small pouch or bag sewn into or onto a garment for carrying items.
• Pouf
  A gathered, voluminous section of fabric on a garment.
• Preboard
  To heat-set a synthetic garment on a shaped form before the dyeing process.
• Prefade
  A manufacturing treatment that artificially ages fabric to look worn.
• Princess cutalso princess seam
  A garment style shaped by long vertical seams instead of darts.
• Purse-string
  Describing a circular closure drawn tight by pulling a continuous thread or cord.
• Right side
  The side of a fabric intended to face outward on a finished project.
• Rouleau
  A narrow tube of fabric used for piping, decoration, or button loops.
• Seam allowancealso SA
  The extra fabric between the stitching line and the raw edge of a cut piece.
• Self-fabric
  The primary material from which the main body of a garment is constructed.
• Self-finished
  Describing a fabric edge that naturally resists fraying without requiring a sewn hem or binding.
• Set-in
  A sleeve style constructed as a separate tube and sewn into the armhole of a garment.
• Shawl collar
  A rounded collar that extends down the front of a garment without lapel notches.
• Sloperalso block, pattern block
  A basic, custom-fitted pattern block used as a foundation for designing garments.
• SS
  The structural line of stitching running down the lateral edge of a garment.
• Stoatalso stoating
  To invisibly join two edges of thick fabric by sewing through the thickness.
• Strippy
  Describes a quilt top constructed from long, vertical columns of fabric separated by contrasting sashing strips.
• Stroking
  A traditional hand-sewing technique used to arrange and flatten small gathers evenly before attaching them to a band.
• Tailhole
  An opening constructed in an animal garment to accommodate a tail.
• Take up
  To shorten a garment by folding and securing excess fabric.
• Tuck
  A stitched fold made in a garment to shape it, shorten it, or add decorative detail.
• Unbaste
  To remove temporary basting stitches from a garment after permanent sewing is complete.
• Unbastedalso untacked
  A garment or seam that has not been temporarily secured with long, loose stitches.
• Undercollar
  The hidden bottom layer of a two-piece collar that rests against the garment.
• Underwrap
  The hidden layer of fabric that sits beneath the overlapping section of a garment.
• Unpickalso tink
  To carefully cut and remove stitches to separate pieces of fabric or undo knitting.
• Weight
  To add heavy materials to a hem or fabric to improve its drape and prevent it from blowing open.
• Windowpaning
  A framing border added around individual quilt blocks.
• Wrong
  The side of a fabric or garment meant to face inward.
• Wrong sidealso back, inside
  The back or inside face of a piece of fabric that is meant to be hidden in the final garment.

Identify distinct silhouettes, dress codes, and specific items of apparel worn for function or formal occasions.

• After-five
  A dress code specifying semiformal or cocktail attire suitable for evening events.
• Ao dai
  A traditional Vietnamese garment featuring a tight-fitting silk tunic worn over trousers.
• Attirealso apparel, garments
  The collective clothing and accessories worn for a specific occasion or purpose.
• Ballgownalso ball gown
  A formal women's dress characterized by a fitted bodice and a very full, floor-length skirt.
• Barrister's bandsalso bands
  A piece of traditional legal neckwear consisting of two rectangular strips of white cloth.
• Baseball cap
  A soft, fitted cap with a rounded crown and a stiff, projecting front visor.
• Beaniealso toque
  A close-fitting, brimless knitted cap worn on the head for warmth.
• Belt
  A flexible band worn around the waist to support garments or cinch the silhouette.
• Belt buckle
  The hardware mechanism that fastens the ends of a belt together.
• Beret
  A soft, round, flat-crowned hat typically made of woven or knitted wool.
• Boateralso skimmer, sennit hat
  A stiff straw hat featuring a perfectly flat crown and a straight, rigid brim.
• Bomberalso bomber jacket, flight jacket
  A short waist-length outerwear jacket featuring a gathered or ribbed waistband and matching cuffs.
• Boot cut
  A trouser silhouette that flares slightly from the knee to the hem.
• Bubble romperalso bubble suit, bubble
  A one-piece infant garment designed with extra fullness around the hips and bottom.
• Business casual
  A relaxed professional dress code that omits suits and ties but requires neat, tailored garments.
• Business formal
  The highest level of standard professional attire, consisting of tailored suits and conservative accessories.
• Cargo shortsalso cargos
  Casual shorts featuring large patch pockets on the outer thighs.
• Carmagnole
  A historic style of short jacket featuring a broad collar, wide lapels, and multiple rows of buttons.
• Carriage gownalso carriage dress
  A historic women's dress designed for daytime travel and outdoor visiting.
• Church crownalso Sunday hat
  An elaborate, highly decorated hat traditionally worn by women to Sunday religious services. Shop talk
• Coat
  A heavy outer garment with sleeves, worn outdoors to provide warmth and protection from the weather.
• Compression sockalso support hose
  A specialized hosiery item knit with high-tension elastic fibers to apply graduated pressure to the lower leg.
• Cossack hatalso papakha
  A brimless, cylindrical winter hat that flares slightly at the top.
• DJalso tuxedo jacket
  A common tailoring abbreviation for a dinner jacket. Shop talk
• Dress
  A single-piece garment consisting of a bodice and an attached skirt.
• Eton collar
  An Eton collar is a broad, stiff, white shirt collar that folds down flat over the lapels of a jacket.
• Feetsyalso footed
  Describes a garment constructed with enclosed foot coverings. Shop talk
• Fleeceware
  A category of garments constructed primarily from synthetic fleece fabrics.
• Flouncy
  Describes a garment characterized by wide, gathered or pleated strips of fabric that create a ruffled, bouncy silhouette.
• Flower crown
  A circular headpiece constructed by wiring or weaving fresh, dried, or artificial flowers into a continuous ring.
• French cutalso high-cut
  A garment silhouette featuring a high-cut leg opening that exposes the upper thigh.
• Full-length
  A garment that extends all the way to the floor or the ankles.
• Grape smugglers
  A slang term for tight, brief-style men's swimwear. Shop talk
• Half-mast
  A colloquial description for trousers that are noticeably too short. Shop talk
• Hat
  A shaped head covering typically featuring a crown and a brim.
• Henleyalso Henley shirt
  A collarless knit shirt featuring a short buttoned placket at the front neckline.
• Hiplet
  A style of pantyhose or tights designed with a waistband that sits high above the natural hip.
• Hug-me-tight
  A close-fitting, sleeveless knitted or crocheted jacket. Shop talk
• Jeansalso denims
  Sturdy trousers made from denim or dungaree cloth.
• Jumper
  A knitted upper-body garment or a sleeveless dress worn over a blouse.
• Keikogialso gi, dogi
  A traditional two-piece uniform worn for practice in Japanese martial arts.
• Kippahalso yarmulke
  A small, brimless cloth skullcap worn by Jewish men.
• Knit capalso beanie, tuque
  A soft, close-fitting head covering made from knitted yarn.
• L/S
  The standard abbreviation for a long-sleeved garment.
• Lettice cap
  A historic triangular head covering made of white weasel fur or velvet.
• Little black dressalso LBD
  A versatile, simply cut evening or cocktail dress designed for long-lasting appeal.
• Macaroni dress
  An exaggerated, highly ornamented style of men's clothing popular in historic European fashion.
• Man-tailored
  A style of women's clothing constructed with the structured cuts and heavy fabrics typical of traditional menswear.
• Matchbox skirt
  A straight, heavily structured skirt with a rigid rectangular silhouette.
• Matelot
  A style of garment featuring nautical design elements like drop-front trousers or wide collars.
• Mi-partialso parti-colored
  A garment design where the left and right halves are made from contrasting colors or patterns.
• Mock turtleneckalso mock neck
  A knit collar that stands up around the neck but does not fold over.
• Nap dress
  A loose, comfortable dress featuring a smocked bodice and puff sleeves.
• Nightcap
  A soft cloth headpiece worn during sleep to retain body heat in cold environments.
• Overtop
  A layering garment designed to be worn over the upper body portion of an outfit.
• Pamela hat
  A historic style of wide-brimmed straw hat tied under the chin.
• Parka
  A heavy, hooded, weather-resistant jacket designed for extreme cold and wind.
• Peakalso visor, bill
  The stiff, projecting front section of a cap that shades the eyes.
• Peekaboo blouse
  A blouse made of sheer fabric or featuring strategic cutouts to reveal skin.
• Peekaboo dress
  A dress designed with sheer panels or cutouts to expose portions of the body.
• Peter Pan collar
  A flat collar with rounded ends that lies flush against the bodice.
• Pie crust collar
  A high, ruffled collar with evenly fluted edges resembling the crimped edge of a pie.
• Playshorts
  Casual, loose-fitting shorts designed for active movement and leisure.
• Pocket square
  A decorative cloth folded and placed in the breast pocket of a suit jacket.
• Rah-rahalso rah-rah skirt
  A short, tiered and heavily gathered skirt that flares outward. Shop talk
• Russian blousealso kosovorotka, rubashka
  A loose-fitting blouse with wide sleeves that fastens at the side and hangs over the trousers.
• S/Salso SS
  This abbreviation denotes a garment designed with short sleeves.
• Sailor collaralso middy collar
  A wide, flat collar featuring a square back panel and tapering front points.
• Sash
  A long band of fabric worn around the waist or over one shoulder.
• Scoop bonnetalso poke bonnet
  This is a historic style of women's headwear featuring a deep, projecting brim.
• Selendang
  A traditional Southeast Asian rectangular cloth worn as a shoulder sash or used as a sling.
• Shirt
  A tailored garment for the upper body, typically featuring a collar, sleeves, and a front opening.
• Skinny jeans
  A style of denim trousers cut to fit closely from the waist down to the ankle.
• Sleep shorts
  A lightweight, loose-fitting lower garment designed specifically for nightwear and lounging.
• Sleeveless
  A garment design that entirely omits fabric covering the arms.
• Smart casual
  A dress code combining well-fitting, polished garments with relaxed, everyday clothing elements.
• Sock
  A fitted, knitted garment designed to cover the foot and lower leg.
• Spezzato
  A tailored outfit combining a jacket and trousers from different suits.
• Standaway
  A collar style that rolls outward and does not sit flush against the neck.
• Suitalso lounge suit, business suit
  A matching set of tailored outer garments designed to be worn together.
• Suit of dittoes
  A traditional men's three-piece suit made entirely from the same fabric.
• Sunfrockalso sundress
  A lightweight, sleeveless dress designed for warm weather and outdoor wear.
• Swimcapalso bathing cap, swim cap
  A tight-fitting head covering worn to keep hair contained while swimming.
• Talso tee
  A casual short-sleeved top without a collar or buttons. Shop talk
• T-shirtalso tee, tee-shirt
  A casual knit shirt with short sleeves and no collar.
• Tea-length
  A dress or skirt hemline that falls below the knee but above the ankle.
• Tea-wrap
  A historic style of women's shawl worn during afternoon tea.
• Temple garmentalso garments
  Specialized underwear worn by endowed members of the Latter-day Saint church.
• Ticket pocket
  A small extra pocket positioned just above the right main pocket on a tailored jacket.
• Tie beltalso Tie-belted
  A fabric sash or cord worn around the waist and secured with a knot rather than a buckle.
• Tracksuit
  A matching two-piece athletic outfit consisting of loose trousers and a zipped jacket or pullover.
• Turban
  A head covering made by winding a long piece of fabric around the head.
• Ulster
  A heavy, long overcoat originally made of rough wool, often featuring a cape or half-belt.
• Upper garmentalso top
  A piece of clothing designed to cover the torso and shoulders.
• Vandyke collar
  A broad, flat collar featuring deep, sharply pointed scallops along its outer edge.
• Waterfall skirtalso high-low skirt, mullet skirt
  A skirt designed with an asymmetrical hemline that cascades down longer in the back than the front.
• Y-frontalso Y-fronts
  A style of men's briefs featuring an overlapping front fly constructed with seams shaped like an inverted Y.
• Yemalso yếm
  A traditional Vietnamese bodice featuring a halter neckline and a diamond or V-shaped hem.

Master the standardized dimensions and abbreviations used to scale patterns and ensure accurate garment fitting.

• CBalso center back
  Center back, the vertical line running down the exact middle of the back of a garment.
• CFalso center front
  Center front, the vertical line running down the exact middle of the front of a garment.
• Extra extra extra largealso 3XL, XXXL
  A standard garment size designed for individuals significantly larger than average.
• Extra extra extra smallalso 3XS, XXXS
  A standard garment size designed for individuals significantly smaller than average.
• Extra extra largealso 2XL, XXL
  A standard garment size intended for larger frames, typically fitting a 50 to 52-inch chest.
• Extra extra smallalso 2XS, XXS
  A standard garment size intended for very petite frames, generally fitting a 30 to 32-inch bust.
• Extra largealso XL
  A standard garment size designed for frames larger than average, typically fitting a 46 to 48-inch chest.
• Extra smallalso XS
  A standard garment size designed for petite frames, typically fitting a 32 to 34-inch bust.
• Gaugealso tension
  The number of stitches and rows that fit into a standard measurement of knitted or crocheted fabric.
• Hipline
  The horizontal line around the widest part of the hips used for garment fitting and drafting.
• HSPalso highest shoulder point
  Highest shoulder point, a key reference mark for garment measuring.
• L
  The standard abbreviation for large in garment sizing.
• Large
  A standard garment size falling between medium and extra large.
• M
  Medium, a standard garment size falling between small and large.
• Meas
  A pattern abbreviation indicating a specific dimension or the act of taking a measurement.
• Mediumalso M
  A standard garment size intended to fit a person of average build.
• One-size-fits-allalso OS, one size
  A garment designed to fit a wide range of body shapes and sizes.
• Overbustalso full bust
  The circumference of the chest measured across the fullest part of the breasts.
• Petite
  A clothing size category proportioned for shorter individuals.
• Regainalso moisture regain
  The natural moisture absorption of a textile fiber, expressed as a percentage of its dry weight.
• Smallalso S
  A standard garment size intended for individuals with below-average measurements.
• Underbust
  The horizontal body measurement taken directly beneath the breasts.
• WOF
  Width of fabric, the measurement from one selvage edge to the other.
• WPI
  Wraps per inch, a method for measuring the thickness of a yarn.
• XLalso extra-large
  The standard abbreviation for extra large, a common garment size.
• XLT
  The abbreviation for extra large tall, a garment size designed for taller individuals.
• XSalso extra-small
  The standard abbreviation for extra small, indicating a garment size smaller than a small.
• XXLalso extra-extra-large, 2XL
  The abbreviation for extra extra large, a plus-size garment designation.
• XXSalso extra-extra-small
  The abbreviation for extra extra small, one of the smallest standard commercial garment sizes.
• XXXLalso extra-extra-extra-large, 3XL
  The abbreviation for extra extra extra large, a commercial plus-size garment designation.
• XXXSalso extra extra extra small
  Extra extra extra small is a highly restricted apparel size for garments with very small measurements.
• XXXXLalso 4XL
  The abbreviation for extra extra extra extra large.

Familiarize yourself with factory floor jargon, common manufacturing errors, and the specialized roles of workers.

• Bang offalso bang-off
  An automated loom malfunction where the shuttle fails to box correctly and triggers an emergency stop. Shop talk
• Barryalso barre, barré
  A fabric defect characterized by unintended horizontal streaks or bands of color. Shop talk
• Destash
  To sell or give away excess yarn, fabric, or craft supplies from a personal collection. Shop talk
• Drawboy
  A historic weaving assistant who manually lifted harness cords on a drawloom.
• Eyebrowing
  The accumulation of lint and waste fibers on the drafting rollers of a spinning frame. Shop talk
• Jigman
  A textile worker who operates a jigger machine to dye batches of cloth.
• LYS
  Local yarn store, an independent retail shop specializing in knitting and crochet supplies. Shop talk
• Mispickalso missing pick
  A weaving flaw caused by a weft yarn that fails to interlace properly with the warp.
• Mispin
  An error in aligning pattern pieces or fabric layers before sewing. Shop talk
• NWTalso new with tags
  This acronym indicates that a garment or fabric item has never been worn or washed and still has its original retail labels attached. Shop talk
• Percheralso fabric inspector, cloth examiner
  A quality control worker who inspects fabric for defects before finishing.
• Pillalso bobble, Pilled
  A tiny, hard ball of tangled fibers that forms on the surface of a fabric.
• Rowy
  Describing a fabric that displays unwanted horizontal lines or streaks.
• Scob
  A weaving defect where the weft yarn skips over warp threads it should have interlaced with. Shop talk
• Seated
  Describing a skirt or pair of trousers that has permanently stretched out at the buttocks from prolonged sitting. Shop talk
• Shmattealso schmatte
  A slang term for a piece of clothing, often implying it is cheap, old, or a rag. Shop talk
• Shuttleman
  A mill worker responsible for maintaining and repairing loom shuttles.
• Squally
  Describing fabric or yarn that is uneven or faulty in quality. Shop talk
• Tackleralso loom overlooker, loom fixer
  A specialized mechanic who maintains and repairs weaving looms. Shop talk
• Tight-assed
  Describing a pair of trousers or jeans that fit with zero ease across the seat. Shop talk
• Twitalso twitter
  A historic term for a thin spot or tangled knot in spun yarn. Shop talk
• Twitteralso twit
  A historic term for an uneven, knotted, or weakly spun section of yarn. Shop talk
• Worming
  A defect where yarn twists or bunches up into coil-like loops after weaving.