Built Environment
Nonwovens
How fibers become fabric without a loom, in the words of the people who run the lines.
- 109 terms
- 25 shop talk
- 7 topics
Nonwovens people make fabric straight from fiber or polymer, skipping spinning yarn and weaving. Their vocabulary is heard on spunmelt lines, in carding halls and needle loom rooms, in hygiene and medical converting plants, and in the labs that sign off every roll. It is the language of diaper topsheets, wet wipes, surgical gowns, filter media, geotextiles and car trim.
The lingo is built on process names, because a nonwoven is described by how its web was formed and how it was bonded. Insiders say spunbond, meltblown and SMS for the polymer-to-fabric routes, carding and cross-lapper for drylaid lines, and airlaid and wetlaid for the pulp and water-based ones. Bonding gets its own words: needlepunch, hydroentangling (which most of the trade calls spunlace), thermal bonding, point bonding and TAB. Every spec then turns on a few numbers: gsm, MD and CD tensile, hydrohead, strike-through and rewet.
There are two dialects. North American plants talk denier, hand and spunbond; European ones talk dtex, handle, fleece and spunlaid. On the floor the words get shorter and more colorful: bico and lo-melt for binder fibers, chips for polymer pellets, beam for each spinning station, curtain for the falling filaments, pack change when a spin pack fouls.
An outsider says the fabric has some lumps in it. An insider says beam two is throwing drips, the MB layer has shot so hydrohead is down, and the batch off second shift is boardy because the calender ran hot. Defects such as roping, neps, fly, wraps and jet streaks, and converting words like mother roll, pancake, festoon and doff, are what mark someone who has actually stood beside a running line.
Who talks like this: Nonwovens process engineers, line operators, fiber and resin suppliers, hygiene and medical product developers, converters, quality lab technicians and roll goods buyers.
Start here: ten words every newcomer needs
Nonwoven
Fabric made directly from fibers or filaments locked together by needles, water jets, heat or binder instead of woven or knitted yarn.
Spunbond
Nonwoven of continuous filaments extruded, air-drawn and laid on a belt, then usually bonded by a hot calender.
Meltblown
Web of very fine fibers made by blasting molten polymer from a row of tiny die holes with hot, high-speed air.
SMS
Spunbond-meltblown-spunbond: a three-layer composite of strong spunbond outer layers around a meltblown barrier core.
Spunlace
Fabric bonded by hydroentangling, and the usual trade name for the whole process family.
Needlepunch
Mechanical bonding in which barbed needles punch repeatedly through a batt, dragging fibers through and tangling it.
Carding
Combing staple fibers between wire-covered rolls to open them and form an even, mostly parallel web.
gsm
Grams per square meter, the shorthand unit for nonwoven basis weight on specs, labels and the line.
MD
Machine direction: the direction a nonwoven travels through the line, along the length of the roll.
Hand
How a fabric feels to the touch: softness, smoothness, stiffness, drape and warmth taken together.
Overheard on the job
Real-sounding lines from the floor, translated into plain English.
Beam two is throwing drips again, so plan a pack change before the camera starts rejecting rolls.
TranslationThe second spinning station is dropping polymer lumps into the fabric, so schedule a replacement of its spin pack before the inspection system fails the product.
MB is full of shot since they pushed throughput, hydrohead on the SMS is down ten centimeters.
TranslationRaising output on the meltblown layer has created polymer beads instead of fine fibers, and the barrier rating of the three-layer fabric has dropped.
Calender ran hot on second shift, the whole batch is boardy and the panel hates the hand.
TranslationThe bonding rolls were too hot, so the fabric came out stiff and papery and failed the softness assessment.
Card is roping and loading on this lot, check the finish before we blame the humidity.
TranslationFibers are twisting into strings and clogging the carding machine's wire teeth, which points to a problem with the fiber's spin finish.
Jet streak at 80 centimeters, pull the strip on injector four.
TranslationA line along the hydroentangled fabric lines up with a plugged hole in one water-jet strip, so replace that strip.
Customer wants 25 gsm TAB topsheet with the new bico, and strike-through has to stay under three seconds.
TranslationThe buyer wants a 25 g/m2 through-air bonded skin-contact layer made with a new bicomponent binder fiber, passing liquid in under three seconds.
Doff at 6,000 meters, slit it into pancakes for the trial and festoon the rest.
TranslationTake the full roll off the winder at 6,000 meters, slit part of it into simple narrow rolls for a trial and package the remainder as folded strip in boxes.
Fibers & Polymers
16 termsStaple fibers, filaments, binder fibers, resins and the units used to describe them.
- Bicoalso bi-co, bicompShop clip for bicomponent fiber, usually meaning sheath-core binder fiber bought for thermal bonding. Shop talk
- Bicomponent fiberalso bicomponent, conjugate fiberFiber spun from two different polymers in one cross section, such as a low-melting sheath around a strong core.
- Binder fiberalso binder, bonding fiberLow-melting fiber blended into a web so that, when heated, it softens and glues the other fibers together.
- Chipsalso pellets, resinShop word for the polymer pellets fed to spunbond, meltblown and fiber extrusion lines. Shop talk
- Crimpalso fiber crimpThe waviness built into staple fibers so they cling together during opening and carding.
- Denieralso den, dUnit of fiber fineness equal to the mass in grams of 9,000 meters of fiber or filament.
- dtexalso decitexDecitex: fiber fineness unit equal to the mass in grams of 10,000 meters of fiber, the European standard.
- Filamentalso continuous filament, CFA fiber of effectively unlimited length, extruded and laid down without cutting, as in spunbond webs.
- Fluff pulpalso fluff, comminution pulpBleached softwood pulp made to be shredded dry into a soft, bulky fiber mass for absorbent cores and airlaid.
- Lo-meltalso low-melt, LMPETShop name for low-melt polyester binder fiber, usually a copolyester sheath on a standard PET core. Shop talk
- Melt flow ratealso MFR, MFIGrams of molten polymer pushed through a standard die in 10 minutes, the basic measure of how easily a resin flows.
- PPalso polypropylene, polypropPolypropylene: the most widely used polymer in nonwovens, especially spunbond and meltblown fabrics.
- Spin finishalso finish, fiber finishThin coating applied to fibers during manufacture to control friction, static and wettability in processing.
- Splittable fiberalso segmented pie fiber, splittable bicoBicomponent fiber built to split into much finer microfibers after it has been laid into a web.
- Staple fiberalso staple, cut fiberFibers cut to a fixed, finite length, as opposed to continuous filament, used in carded, airlaid and wetlaid webs.
- Viscosealso rayon, viscose rayonRegenerated cellulose fiber, the main absorbent man-made fiber in spunlace wipes and hygiene products.
Web Forming
21 termsCarding, airlaid, wetlaid, spunbond, meltblown and the other routes that lay fibers into a web.
- Airlaidalso air-laid, airlaid paperWeb formed by suspending short fibers, mostly fluff pulp with some binder fiber, in air and depositing them on a wire.
- Battalso batting, lapThick layer of fibers built up from several webs, usually by cross-lapping, ready for needling or thermal bonding.
- Beamalso spinning beam, S beamLine talk for one spinning or meltblown station across the width of a spunmelt line. Shop talk
- Cardingalso cardCombing staple fibers between wire-covered rolls to open them and form an even, mostly parallel web.
- Coformalso co-formComposite web made by blowing wood pulp fibers into a meltblown fiber stream as it forms.
- Cross-lapperalso crosslapper, lapperMachine that lays a light card web back and forth across a slower conveyor to build a wider, heavier batt.
- Curtainalso filament curtainLine slang for the wide sheet of falling filaments between a spunbond spinneret and the laydown belt. Shop talk
- Drylaidalso dry laid, drylaid webDescribes webs formed from dry staple fibers, chiefly by carding and by air laying.
- Flashspunalso flash-spun, flashspinningDescribes sheet made by spinning a hot, pressurized polymer solution so the solvent flashes off and leaves a web of fibrils.
- Fleecealso Vlies, fibre fleeceEuropean name for an unbonded or lightly bonded fiber web or batt, from the German word Vlies.
- Highloftalso high-loft, fiberfill battLow-density, thick nonwoven made for bulk and trapped air rather than strength, such as fiberfill and padding.
- Meltblownalso melt-blown, MBWeb of very fine fibers made by blasting molten polymer from a row of tiny die holes with hot, high-speed air.
- Nonwovenalso nonwoven fabric, engineered fabricFabric made directly from fibers or filaments locked together by needles, water jets, heat or binder instead of woven or knitted yarn.
- Quenchalso quench air, cooling airStream of cooled, conditioned air that solidifies filaments just below the spinneret in spunbond and fiber spinning.
- SMSalso spunbond-meltblown-spunbondSpunbond-meltblown-spunbond: a three-layer composite of strong spunbond outer layers around a meltblown barrier core.
- Spinneretalso spin plate, spinneretteMetal plate drilled with many small holes through which molten polymer is extruded into filaments.
- Spunbondalso spunbonded, SBNonwoven of continuous filaments extruded, air-drawn and laid on a belt, then usually bonded by a hot calender.
- Spunlaidalso spun-laid, polymer-laidDescribes webs made by extruding polymer into filaments and laying them down directly in one continuous line.
- Spunmeltalso spun-meltCollective term for spunbond and meltblown processes and the composite fabrics made by combining them.
- Webalso fibrous web, card webThin layer of fibers or filaments made in the first stage of nonwoven production, before or after bonding.
- Wetlaidalso wet-laid, wet-formedDescribes webs formed from fibers dispersed in water and drained on a screen, on equipment adapted from papermaking.
Bonding
17 termsNeedling, water jets, heat, binders and ultrasound: the ways a loose web becomes fabric.
- Barbalso needle barbSmall notch cut into the working blade of a felting needle that catches fibers and carries them through the batt.
- Bond areaalso bonded area, bond percentagePercentage of a point-bonded fabric's surface covered by fused bond points.
- Calender bondingalso thermal calendering, calenderingThermal bonding in a heated roll nip, either across the whole surface or at points set by an engraved roll.
- Chemical bondingalso resin bonding, latex bondingBonding a web with a liquid binder, usually a latex, that is applied, dried and cured to glue the fibers together.
- Hydroentanglingalso hydroentanglement, spunlacingBonding a fiber web by blasting it with rows of very fine, high-pressure water jets that tangle the fibers together.
- Latexalso latex binder, emulsion binderWater-based polymer dispersion used as the binder in chemically bonded nonwovens.
- Needle loomalso needle-punch loom, needlerMachine that drives boards of barbed needles through a moving batt to bond it mechanically.
- Needlepunchalso needle punching, needlingMechanical bonding in which barbed needles punch repeatedly through a batt, dragging fibers through and tangling it.
- Point bondingalso pattern bonding, spot bondingCalender bonding with an engraved roll that fuses the web only at small, regularly spaced points.
- Punch densityalso needling density, penetrations per square centimeterNumber of needle penetrations per square centimeter of fabric, the basic dose of needling.
- Spunlacealso spunlaced, hydroentangled nonwovenFabric bonded by hydroentangling, and the usual trade name for the whole process family.
- Stitchbondingalso stitch bonding, stitch-bondedBonding a fiber web or layers of yarn by knitting rows of chain stitches through them.
- Stripalso jet strip, nozzle stripLine name for the thin perforated metal jet strip that forms the water jets in a hydroentangling injector. Shop talk
- TABalso air-through, hot-air nonwovenThrough-air bonded: shop and spec shorthand for fabrics bonded by hot air drawn through the web. Shop talk
- Thermal bondingalso thermobonding, heat bondingBonding a web by heating it so thermoplastic fibers or binder fibers soften and fuse at their crossing points.
- Through-air bondingalso through-air bonded, air-through bondingThermal bonding that pulls hot air through the web so binder fibers fuse without the web being crushed.
- Ultrasonic bondingalso ultrasonic welding, ultrasonic laminationBonding or laminating by vibrating a horn at ultrasonic frequency against a patterned anvil roll to melt fibers locally.
Properties & Testing
20 termsWeight, strength, softness, liquid handling, barrier and filtration measurements.
- Absorbencyalso absorbent capacity, liquid absorption capacityHow much liquid a nonwoven takes up and how fast, usually reported as grams per gram and absorption time.
- Air permeabilityalso air perm, air permeanceRate of air flow through a fabric at a fixed pressure difference, reported per unit area.
- Basis weightalso grammage, weightMass of a nonwoven per unit area, almost always given in grams per square meter.
- BFEalso bacterial filtration efficiencyBacterial filtration efficiency: the percentage of a bacteria-laden aerosol that a mask or filter fabric stops.
- CDalso cross direction, cross-machine directionCross direction: the direction across the width of a nonwoven roll, at right angles to machine travel.
- CValso coefficient of variationCoefficient of variation: standard deviation divided by the mean, the yardstick of nonwoven uniformity.
- Drapealso drape coefficient, drapabilityHow readily a fabric hangs and folds under its own weight, a comfort property for gowns, drapes and wipes.
- Electretalso electret filter, charged mediaFilter fabric, usually meltblown, carrying a long-lasting electrostatic charge that pulls particles out of the air.
- Grab tensilealso grab strength, grab testTensile test in which jaws narrower than the specimen grip its center, so neighboring fibers help carry the load.
- gsmalso g/m2, grams per square meterGrams per square meter, the shorthand unit for nonwoven basis weight on specs, labels and the line.
- Handalso handle, feelHow a fabric feels to the touch: softness, smoothness, stiffness, drape and warmth taken together.
- Hydroheadalso hydrostatic head, HSHShop and spec clip for hydrostatic head: the water pressure a fabric holds before water comes through. Shop talk
- Lintalso linting, particle sheddingLoose fibers and fragments a fabric sheds during handling, flexing or use.
- Loftalso bulkThickness and springiness of a nonwoven, especially its ability to recover thickness after being compressed.
- MDalso machine direction, longitudinal directionMachine direction: the direction a nonwoven travels through the line, along the length of the roll.
- Rewetalso wetback, wet-backAmount of liquid that comes back up through a topsheet under pressure after the pad has absorbed it.
- Strike-throughalso strike-through time, liquid strike-throughHygiene test time for a set dose of liquid to pass through a topsheet into the absorbent pad underneath.
- Strip tensilealso strip tensile strength, strip testTensile test in which the full width of a narrow strip is clamped and pulled to break.
- Wet-outalso wetting, wettabilityLine and lab talk for how readily a fabric lets liquid soak in and spread instead of beading on top. Shop talk
- Wickingalso capillary rise, wickCapillary movement of liquid along or through a fabric, measured as how far liquid climbs a strip in a set time.
Products & Markets
6 termsRoll goods and the hygiene, wipes and filling products made from them.
- ADLalso acquisition distribution layer, surge layerAcquisition distribution layer: the lofty layer under a diaper topsheet that takes in liquid and spreads it to the core.
- Backsheetalso back sheet, outer coverOuter, liquid-proof layer of a diaper or pad, usually breathable film laminated to a soft nonwoven.
- Flushablealso dispersible, flushable wipeDescribes wipes and similar products designed to break up and pass safely through toilets, drains and sewers.
- Roll goodsalso rollgoods, nonwoven rollsNonwoven fabric sold in rolls to converters, as opposed to finished products made from it.
- Topsheetalso coverstock, top sheetSoft, liquid-permeable nonwoven layer of a diaper or pad that touches the skin.
- Waddingalso batting, fiberfillEuropean and textile-trade term for a loose, bulky batt used for padding, insulation or filling.
Converting & Roll Goods
16 termsSlitting, winding, packaging, laminating and the roll-handling words of the converting floor.
- Aperturingalso apertured, perforatingMaking a regular pattern of holes in a nonwoven, mainly so liquid passes through topsheets faster.
- Butt rollalso stub roll, short rollLeftover partial roll from the end of a mother roll or slitting set that is too short for a full order. Shop talk
- Corealso roll core, tubeTube, usually paperboard, on which nonwoven fabric is wound to make a roll.
- Doffalso doffing, roll changeTo take a finished roll off a winder and start winding on a fresh core or shaft. Shop talk
- Edge trimalso trim, edge stripsStrips cut from both sides of a nonwoven web to give clean edges and the correct finished width.
- Embossingalso embossed pattern, embossPressing a raised or recessed pattern into a nonwoven with engraved, usually heated, rolls.
- Festoonalso festooned package, festooningPackage in which narrow nonwoven strip is folded back and forth into a box instead of being wound on a roll.
- Laminationalso laminating, laminateJoining a nonwoven to film, another nonwoven or other material to make one multilayer product.
- Mother rollalso jumbo roll, master rollFull-width roll wound at the end of the production line, before it is slit into customer rolls. Shop talk
- Pancakealso planetary roll, pancake rollShop word for a narrow slit roll wound straight on itself, far wider in diameter than it is tall. Shop talk
- Reproalso regrind, reclaimPolymer recovered from trim, start-up waste and off-spec fabric, repelletized and fed back to the extruders. Shop talk
- Secondsalso off-spec, B-gradeOff-quality nonwoven sold at a discount instead of as prime, such as start-up material or off-spec rolls. Shop talk
- Slittingalso slit, slitter-rewindingCutting a wide nonwoven roll lengthwise into narrower rolls on a slitter-rewinder.
- Splicealso joint, flying spliceJoint made when the end of one roll is attached to the start of the next to keep material running.
- Spoolingalso traverse winding, traverse-wound spoolWinding a narrow strip back and forth across a wide core, like thread on a spool, to pack very long lengths.
- Telescopingalso telescoped rollRoll defect in which wound layers slide sideways so the roll end pokes out like an extended telescope.
Line Talk & Defects
13 termsThe faults, slang and maintenance jobs heard around a running nonwovens line.
- Boardyalso papery, stiffDescribes a nonwoven that feels stiff, harsh and papery, usually from over-bonding. Shop talk
- Delaminationalso delam, ply separationSeparation of the layers of a laminate or multilayer nonwoven, such as an SMS or a film composite.
- Dripalso drips, polymer dripLump of polymer that falls from a spinneret or die and lands in the web as a hard, often glassy spot. Shop talk
- Flyalso flyings, fiber flyLoose airborne fibers released by opening, carding and cutting that settle on machines and floors. Shop talk
- Fuzzalso fuzzingLoose fiber ends on the surface of a nonwoven that lift into pills or lint when rubbed. Shop talk
- Jet streaksalso jet lines, jet marksLines running in the machine direction of a spunlace fabric, caused by blocked or damaged water jets. Shop talk
- Loadingalso card loading, cylinder loadingBuildup of fiber and finish residue in card clothing, which clogs the teeth and spoils the web. Shop talk
- Nepalso neps, fiber nepSmall, tight knot of tangled fibers that shows as a speck or pimple on the fabric surface.
- Pack changealso spin pack change, pack swapReplacing the spin pack, including its filters and spinneret, on a spunbond beam or fiber spinning position. Shop talk
- Pinholealso pin hole, holeTiny hole in a barrier fabric or film that lets liquid or particles through.
- Ropealso roping, fiber ropeTwisted bundle of fibers that forms in a carded or airlaid web and shows as a dense streak or knot. Shop talk
- Shotalso shot defect, polymer beadsSmall beads or lumps of polymer that failed to form fibers and sit embedded in a meltblown web. Shop talk
- Wrapalso wraps, roll wrapFibers or web winding around a roll instead of passing through, which can stop a line or damage the roll. Shop talk
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between spunbond and spunlace?
Spunbond is made from continuous polymer filaments extruded, drawn by air, laid on a belt and usually bonded with a hot point calender, all in one line. Spunlace is any web, most often carded viscose and polyester staple, that has been bonded by high-pressure water jets, a process called hydroentangling. Spunbond is typically stronger and cheaper per square meter; spunlace is softer, more absorbent and drapes like cloth, which is why it dominates wet wipes.
What does SMS mean in nonwovens?
SMS stands for spunbond-meltblown-spunbond, a three-layer fabric made in one line. The two spunbond layers give strength and abrasion resistance, and the meltblown layer in the middle, made of very fine fibers, gives liquid barrier and filtration. It is the standard fabric for surgical gowns, drapes, sterilization wrap and diaper leg cuffs. Variants such as SMMS and SSMMS add extra spunbond or meltblown beams for more strength or barrier.
What does gsm mean for nonwoven fabric?
Gsm means grams per square meter, the basis weight of the fabric. It is the first number on almost every nonwoven spec and is often used as the product name, as in a 12 gsm spunbond or a 300 gsm needle felt. Hygiene fabrics can weigh as little as 8 to 15 gsm, wipes roughly 30 to 80 gsm, and needlepunched felts and geotextiles several hundred or more.
What is the difference between MD and CD?
MD, machine direction, is the direction the fabric travels through the line and along the roll length. CD, cross direction, runs across the roll width. Because fibers tend to line up with the machine, most nonwovens are stronger and stretch less in MD. The MD to CD strength ratio tells a lot about the process: carded webs can be very unbalanced, while spunbond and cross-lapped felts are much closer to even.
What is hydrohead and why does it matter?
Hydrohead, short for hydrostatic head, is the water pressure a fabric can hold back before water comes through, measured by raising pressure under a sample until drops appear on top. It is reported in centimeters of water column or in millibars. It is the main barrier figure for medical gowns, drapes and diaper leg cuffs, and it depends mostly on the fine meltblown layer. Shot, pinholes and stray surfactant all lower it.
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