Stroking involves using a heavy needle or pin to scratch down the fabric folds of a gathered section, pushing each tiny pleat into perfect alignment. The sewer runs the needle vertically down the groove of each gather, forcing the excess fabric to lay flat and straight. This creates the highly controlled, rigid gathers necessary for traditional smocking or historic waistband construction.
Heard on the job
The waistband will look bulky unless you spend some time stroking the gathers first.
Insider tip
Always stroke from the gathering thread downwards; stroking upwards will distort the grainline.