Smocking

nounStandard termTextiles

An embroidery technique that gathers fabric into tight pleats and secures them with decorative stitches.

This traditional manipulation method reduces the width of a fabric piece while providing stretch and flexibility before the invention of elastic. The fabric is first pulled into even tubular pleats, then locked in place using surface embroidery threads arranged in geometric patterns. It is commonly used on the bodices, cuffs, and necklines of children's clothing and lightweight blouses.

Heard on the job

The tension on your smocking is too tight, so the bodice won't stretch enough to go over the head.

Also heard as

  • English smocking

Do not mix it up with

  • Shirr: Shirring uses elastic thread to gather fabric and provide stretch, whereas traditional smocking uses rigid embroidery thread over hand-pleated fabric.