To trim the internal layers of a seam allowance to staggered, varying widths after stitching. This technique removes excess bulk from enclosed seams, such as inside collars, cuffs, and facings, ensuring the finished edge presses flat and smooth without leaving a visible ridge on the outside of the garment.
Heard on the job
Make sure you grade the seam allowance on that heavy wool collar, leaving the layer closest to the outside the longest.
Insider tip
Always leave the seam allowance layer that sits closest to the garment exterior the longest, which hides the shorter layers and prevents a ridge from showing through the fabric.
Also heard as
- layer
- stagger