A medium-weight, plain-woven textile made from half-processed and unbleached cotton fibers. It has a characteristic speckled appearance due to the presence of tiny, dark cotton seed remnants woven into the cloth. Because it is cheap, sturdy, and takes dye well, it is widely used for creating test garments in dressmaking, as well as for quilting and backing materials. In North America, the term often refers specifically to cotton printed with small, repeating floral patterns.
Cut the bodice pieces out of calico first so we can check the fit on the dress form before cutting into the expensive silk.
Always pre-wash calico if you intend to use it in a finished washable piece, as it shrinks significantly on its first trip through the laundry.
Related terms
Cotton
A soft, staple textile fiber grown in bolls around the seeds of the cotton plant.
Plain-woven
Constructed using the simplest over-one, under-one interlacing of warp and weft threads.
Printcloth
A lightweight plain-woven cotton fabric specifically manufactured to receive printed designs.
Sloper
A basic, custom-fitted pattern block used as a foundation for designing garments.