A pick stitch is a variation of a running stitch used primarily in high-end tailoring to stabilize edges, such as lapels and collars. The needle catches only a tiny amount of the face fabric, leaving small, evenly spaced dots of thread visible on the right side. It prevents the facing from rolling outward while adding a subtle, hand-finished aesthetic to the garment.
Make sure your pick stitch along the lapel edge is perfectly even, catching no more than two threads per stitch.
A hand-sewn pick stitch is a hallmark of bespoke tailoring, especially on suit jackets, signaling a garment was not entirely machine-made.
Do not mix it up with
- Topstitch: A topstitch is a continuous, highly visible line of machine or hand sewing, while a pick stitch leaves only tiny, spaced-out dots of thread visible.
Related terms
Running stitch
A basic sewing stitch made by passing the needle in and out of the fabric at regular intervals.
Topstitch
To sew a line of visible stitches on the exterior of a garment for decoration or structural reinforcement.
Right side
The side of a fabric intended to face outward on a finished project.